The First Tier of Avalon faces northwest and is the smallest of the three tiers. A grassy ledge runs up and left along its base. A good trail leads left to this wall about 100 feet above the stream.

Sex Slave 10c *
FA: R. Rossiter, Chip Bennett, Jessica True, 2002. Climb a mostly one-inch crack for 15 feet, continue up past four bolts, then along a crack in a short left-facing dihedral. Gear up to 2 inches, 2-bolt anchor, 65 feet.

Iron Maiden 9
FA: R. Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001. Start 10 feet left of a block at the base of the wall. 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet.

Slayer 10c*
FA: R. Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001. Begin from a block at the bottom of the wall. 7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 70 feet.

Body Count 11c*
FA: Mark Dixon and R. Rossiter, 2002. Penultimate sport climb on right side of wall. 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 60 feet.

Marquis de Sade 10d *
FA: R. Rossiter and Von Grebe, 2001. Begin 15 feet right of the preceding route. 7 bolts to a 2-bolts anchor, 60 feet.

Tunnel of Love 9 *
FA: R. Rossiter and Lauri Werling, 2001. Climb a hand crack in the right side of the wall, traverse left a few feet, go up through a tunnel, then up a final crack. Gear to 2.5 inches, 2-bolt anchor, 100 feet.

Spare Rib 10d
FA: Dan Hare and Bruce Spozi, 1977. P1. Begin as for the following route and gain a ledge beneath a roof. Climb through the roof at a wedged spike, then continue up an easy crack to a stance beneath a second roof. P2. Climb a bombay squeeze chimney on the left or a diagonal offwidth on the right. Gear, 130 feet in all.

Mists of Avalon 10a * FA: R. Rossiter and Jessica True, 2001. Begin from the approach trail, well down and right from Tunnel of Love. Climb chunky rock to a stance beneath a roof. Turn the roof and climb to the top of a hanging slab. 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 90 feet.