Ledge One. Two climbs start from Ledge One, which is just above and
right of some stone steps on the trail.
Tom Dennis 6
FA: Sean Gallup, Richard Rossiter, Gino Gornnert, 2001.
Dedicated to a friend who died in the Trade Towers on 9/11/01. From the
North Side Trail, gain Ledge One. Climb a steep hand crack that gets easier
after 40 feet. 95 feet to a 2-bolt achor on Ledge Two.
Into the Mystic 10a *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Raoul Rossiter, Steve Bartlett, 2000.
Begin from Ledge One, eight feet right of the preceding route. 6 bolts to a
2-bolt anchor, 95 feet.
Mystical Melange 10c *
Link the above route with Mystic Mile for an excellent three pitch tour of
Sleeping Beauty (280 feet!).
South Pillar. The following three routes ascend a narrow buttress at the far
left side of the wall. Begin from a ramp/ledge that may be reached from
below or by a 130-foot rappel from a 2-bolt anchor near the top of the
buttress. This ledge may also be reached from the anchor atop Aerial
Boundaries.
Jungle of Stone 9 *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Raoul Rossiter, 1998. Gear up to 2.5 inches.
Begin behind a spruce tree and climb straight up past a bolt to a
right-facing dihedral with a finger and hand crack. Climb the dihedral past
a roof (crux), then go up and right to a small tree and finish as for Black
Rain (130 feet).
Black Rain 10b *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Leah Macaluso, Raoul Rossiter, 1998.
Begin as for the preceding route, but break right after 20 feet and gain a
small, flat ledge. Lieback up and right along a flake, then climb straight
up a black water streak and finish with a slab (130 feet). Belay from a
2-bolt anchor near the top of the rib.
Water Spirit 10d *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 1998. Gear up to 3 inches.
Begin beneath an obvious three-inch crack along the right side of the rib.
Jam through a bulge (crux), then step left and follow a thin crack to its
end. Pull left and follow the right edge of the rib to a 2-bolt anchor near
the top (3 bolts).