Main Wall. The large expanse of wall above Ledge Two is known as the
Main Wall. Note that Ledge Two does not extend all the way to the north side
of the wall. To reach the Lost Highway area from this ledge, scramble up to a
pinnacle at its far north end and rappel 90 feet from a 2-bolt anchor to the
big grassy terrace where the route Lost Highway begins.
Aerial Boundaries 12a/b (or 10a A0) *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Morris “Moe” Hershoff, Leah Macaluso, 1998. FFA
Bob D'Antonio, 1999. Begin from a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor just right and
down from the preceding routes. Climb moderate rock to a small roof that is
passed with a very difficult move, then continue straight up the rounded arete
to a sloping shelf with a 2-bolt anchor (10 bolts, 120 feet). The crux is
easily aided. To escape from the top of the route, scramble 40 feet to a narrow
ledge and traverse right.
Lightspeed 11a *
FA: R. Rossiter, Jessica True, Sean Gallup, Gino Gornnert, 2001.
Excellent. Begin toward the left side of Ledge Two. Pull through a roof and
keep going. 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 85 feet.
Sleeping Beauty 10
FA: Dan Hare and Scott Woodruff, 1983.
Begin from the long ledge system that runs across the wall, directly below
the start to Aerial Boundaries. Pull over a roof at a black knob and follow
thin cracks to a bulge, then go right to another crack and gain a ledge.
Follow a hand crack for about 25 feet feet, then go up and right along a
flake and join Wings Of Desire. The original ascent passed the final bulge
on the right.
Kama Sutra 10d *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 1998. Gear to 4 inches.
One of the longest continuous cracks in Boulder Canyon. Begin toward the
left end of Ledge Two, about 30 feet left from Wings Of Desire. May be
ascended in one long pitch.
- Jam a perfect hand crack through a roof (crux) and continue to where the crack goes wide. Jam the wide crack (9) and gain a ledge with a small tree (65 feet). As an alternative, just below the wide crack, pull left (10c) and climb a flared hand crack (9) to the same ledge.
- Follow a crack of varying width to near the top of the wall, then veer left and belay from the anchors on Arial Boundaries (8, 100 feet).
Wings of Desire 11b *
FA: Rossiter, Hershoff, Macaluso, 1998.
This is a beauty. Begin about 30 feet right of the preceding route and 20
feet left of a squeeze chimney. Turn a small roof and continue up steep rock
to a sloping ledge. Go up and left through a blocky area, then straight up a
magnificent slab to a sloping shelf with a 2-bolt anchor (16 bolts, 160
feet). Scramble 50 feet to a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the wall and exit
right.
MLK 12a *
FA: Bob D'Antonio and Kelly Baldwin, 2003. Medium gear and 11 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.
Start left of a black crack, and climb a thin crack (gear). Clip a bolt and place
gear under a good flake. Climb up short left-facing corner to a good ledge. Follow
bolts past an overhang to the anchor. A 60 meter rope just makes it to the ground.
Walk on the Wide Side 9 or 10 *
FA: Rossiter, Benson, Bersto, 1998. Gear up to 4 inches.
Start beneath a 6-inch crack, 15 feet right of Wings Of Desire.
- Jam a hand crack on the left and move right into the line after 30 feet (9), or climb directly up the 6-inch crack (10), then stem through a tapering slot to a good stance (optional belay). Continue up the crack (mostly hands) and turn a small roof with a wedged spike, then climb more easily to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor (100 feet).
- Step right and climb a flat rib to a 2-bolt anchor near the top of the wall (7, 4 bolts, 80 feet).
Immaculate Deception 11c or 11a *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Steve “Crusher” Bartlett, Fran Bagenal, 1999. FA of
shallow crack: Rossiter and Benson. Gear up to 4 inches, QDs only to first
anchor.
Begin 15 feet right from Walk On The Wide Side and left of a large pine.
- Climb a shallow finger crack and a rounded roof (11d, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 50 feet) or start with an easier slab on the right (9, 3 bolts to the same anchor).
- Veer left and master a second tricky roof (11a, 1 bolt), then follow a crack of varying width (10) to a ledge with a V-shaped tree. Pitches 1 and 2 may be combined (100 feet in all).
- Finish with the second pitch of Crack Of Dawn or rappel.