Crack of Dawn 10b *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Dan Hare, 1998. Gear from 1 to 4 inches. Begin 35 feet right from Walk On The Wide Side and to the right of a large pine.

  1. Climb a hand crack that soon goes wide, turn a roof on the right (10b), and continue to the right end of a perfect ledge with a V-shaped pine (2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 100 feet).
  2. Friction up a smooth slab and belay at the top of the wall (9, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 90 feet).

Mystic Mile 10c *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Steve “Crusher” Bartlett, 2000. Steep slabs, little roofs, and solid granite all the way. Begin 15 feet left from the anchor atop Into the Mystic.

  1. Climb directly up the steep wall passing two roofs and gain a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor (10c, 10 bolts, 100 feet).
  2. Climb the center of the slab, turn a roof on the right, and continue more easily to a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the wall (10a, 7 bolts, 85 feet).

The Wave 10a *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Raoul Rossiter, 2000. Begin from the middle 2-bolt anchor on Mystic Mile. Traverse straight right to a big left-facing dihedral, then undercling/lieback up and right to join Eight Miles High (5 bolts, 50 feet).

The Spell 10a
FA: Dan Hare and Joel Schiavone, 1984. Gear up to 3 inches.

  1. Climb a mossy crack left of Mind Bender and belay beneath a huge left-facing dihedral (7).
  2. Follow the dihedral up and left, turn a roof (10a), and continue to the top of the wall.

Eight Miles High 10a *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Sharon Vaughan, 2000. This beautiful route leads out over empty space and has an alpine feel.

  1. Climb through the first 6 bolts of Mind Bender, then traverse left and gain an exposed arete. Climb straight up to where the angle eases (9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 130 feet). Lower off, 100 feet.
  2. Ascend a sloping shelf, a slab, and belay from a tree at the top of the wall (6, 3 bolts, 80 feet). Exit right to Serenity Ledge.

Mind Bender 12a A0 *
FA: Rossiter, Benson, Hare, 1999. Begin 50 feet right from Crack Of Dawn and 30 left of a big flake that leans against the wall.

  1. Climb a slab followed by a crack and a roof on the right, then master a difficult headwall. The last move is the hardest and can be aided (10 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor, 95 feet).
  2. Climb the second pitch of Arcanum or rappel.

Arcanum 10a *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 1998. Gear up to 2 inches. Begin near a large pine, a few feet left of a big flake that leans against the wall.

  1. Climb a slab (2 bolts), then follow a steep finger and hand crack through a roof (crux). Continue up the crack system until it fades, then climb past another bolt and gain a 2-bolt anchor at a narrow stance (90 feet).
  2. Ascend a sloping shelf, a moderate headwall, and gain a 2-bolt anchor on a beautiful granite terrace (Serenity Ledge) at the top of the wall (8, 4 bolts, 85 feet).

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