Crack of Dawn 10b *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Dan Hare, 1998. Gear from 1 to 4 inches.
Begin 35 feet right from Walk On The Wide Side and to the right of a large
pine.
- Climb a hand crack that soon goes wide, turn a roof on the right (10b), and continue to the right end of a perfect ledge with a V-shaped pine (2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 100 feet).
- Friction up a smooth slab and belay at the top of the wall (9, 5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 90 feet).
Mystic Mile 10c *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Steve “Crusher” Bartlett, 2000.
Steep slabs, little roofs, and solid granite all the way. Begin 15 feet left
from the anchor atop Into the Mystic.
- Climb directly up the steep wall passing two roofs and gain a small ledge with a 2-bolt anchor (10c, 10 bolts, 100 feet).
- Climb the center of the slab, turn a roof on the right, and continue more easily to a 2-bolt anchor at the top of the wall (10a, 7 bolts, 85 feet).
The Wave 10a *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Raoul Rossiter, 2000.
Begin from the middle 2-bolt anchor on Mystic Mile. Traverse straight right
to a big left-facing dihedral, then undercling/lieback up and right to join
Eight Miles High (5 bolts, 50 feet).
The Spell 10a
FA: Dan Hare and Joel Schiavone, 1984. Gear up to 3 inches.
- Climb a mossy crack left of Mind Bender and belay beneath a huge left-facing dihedral (7).
- Follow the dihedral up and left, turn a roof (10a), and continue to the top of the wall.
Eight Miles High 10a *
FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Sharon Vaughan, 2000.
This beautiful route leads out over empty space and has an alpine feel.
- Climb through the first 6 bolts of Mind Bender, then traverse left and gain an exposed arete. Climb straight up to where the angle eases (9 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 130 feet). Lower off, 100 feet.
- Ascend a sloping shelf, a slab, and belay from a tree at the top of the wall (6, 3 bolts, 80 feet). Exit right to Serenity Ledge.
Mind Bender 12a A0 *
FA: Rossiter, Benson, Hare, 1999.
Begin 50 feet right from Crack Of Dawn and 30 left of a big flake that leans
against the wall.
- Climb a slab followed by a crack and a roof on the right, then master a difficult headwall. The last move is the hardest and can be aided (10 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor, 95 feet).
- Climb the second pitch of Arcanum or rappel.
Arcanum 10a *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Serena Benson, 1998. Gear up to 2 inches.
Begin near a large pine, a few feet left of a big flake that leans against
the wall.
- Climb a slab (2 bolts), then follow a steep finger and hand crack through a roof (crux). Continue up the crack system until it fades, then climb past another bolt and gain a 2-bolt anchor at a narrow stance (90 feet).
- Ascend a sloping shelf, a moderate headwall, and gain a 2-bolt anchor on a beautiful granite terrace (Serenity Ledge) at the top of the wall (8, 4 bolts, 85 feet).