Wizard Rock is located high on the south side of the canyon,
just east of Avalon. Approach from the east end of the big ledge atop the second
tier of Avalon or from the top of Solaris. To descend, lower from ring anchors or
walk off to the north and west.
Christal Ball 9 *
FA: Richard Rossiter and Christal Einspahr, 2001. Begin toward the left side of the crag. Climb a narrow collumn of clean granite. 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 75 feet.
Magic Wand 8 *
Climb the rounded arete just right across a wide crack from the preceding route. 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 85 feet.
Wave yer Wand 6
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 1998. Climb the face just right of Wand. 85 feet.
Snow Crash 10b *
FA: Richard Rossiter, David Brode, Michelle Brode, 2001. Climb the prominent arete in the middle of the crag. 6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 90 feet. Lower off on the right side of the arete to avoid rope drag.
Right Arete 6
FA: Richard Rossiter, solo, 2001. Scramble up and around to the west side of the crag. Follow a norrow rib to the top. Walk off.
Way of the Lizard 7
FA: R. Rossiter, solo, 1998. Begin at the upper right side of the west face, 15 feet left of the following route. Climb a short, steep section, then follow a narrow slab to the top of the wall. Could probably be done with gear.
Way of the Wizard 9 *
FA: R. Rossiter and Christine Damiano, 2001. This route leads to the top of Wizard Rock. Begin ten feet right of the preceding route at an obtuse dihedral. Stem straight up, gain the main slab, and continue to the top. 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, 85 feet.